![]() ![]() I like to maintain the color theme coming from the points case and alternator case, but since I can't find green/white or green/yellow, I just use green or yellow. Use common colors for wire replacement, like red, black and white. Only leave the two leads from the points cavity and the two coming from the alternator side. My best advice to anyone doing a 650 unit rebuild or custom is to completely remove the wiring harness and start from scratch. Running Boyer CDI with dual 3ohm coils, tiny 12v battery. ![]() * Rubber or foam mount vibration sensitive parts * Put parts that are heat sensitive in areas that get airflow and aren't likely to run hot. * Put everything you MIGHT need to get to on the road where you can ACTUALLY get to it easily. If you have some expensive electronic bit you'd like to protect, by all means use another inline fuse to that part. This works fine if you've done the wiring from scratch and don't have a bunch of wires and shady connections. I've done just fine with one main fuse that is easily accessible. * I know many are in favor of multilple circuits with as many fuses. I either use a central terminal row under the seat for all connections (one spot for each of the colors above) or make a plug-in style pigtail for the battery so I can unplug it by hand to remove/install. * changing batteries in and out is a hassle when you've got more than one or two leads to the terminals. Other, depending on what I have around, for all accessories GRN for ignition (and anything that makes it "go") * I've used the same wiring color scheme forever on all my bikes so I don't have to remember down the road. It's not too involved really, I usually put the horn, tri/duo switch, and the ignition cylinder (if stock and sloppy) on this circuit all behind one relay. Stock switches seem to be prone to shorting, particularly the old ones. That way the main wiring harness stays very simple and secure but you can keep the stock look. * If I'm keeping stock Lucas, or other questionable switches and gear I generally put them on a branch circuit using a $12 auto relay. And as anyone who actually leaves their zipcode on an old motorcycle knows, the bullshit route costs more in the end anyway. More bucks up-front, but ZERO bullshit down the road. * if the weight assembly is trashed (and most of them I've dealt with are), I use a Boyer and a battery with a NEW three-phase charging system. New rotor (stronger magnets) almost always to support batteryless operation. * if the timing weight assembly is not total garbage and I want run without a battery, I keep points and use a condensor. Your recipe is pretty similar to mine for brit bikes. Then I will continue with the plan for raildogs bike. I'll stop here for now, and open this up for discussion and questions.or suggestions about options. ![]() Your choices may be different.possibly an electronic ignition, which means a battery get added to the system. About a hundred bucks covers all this stuff. My shopping list will include a HD points type coil, a tympanium (solid state regulator), and a big capacitor to eliminate the battery. I don't like a battery, so that gets eliminated. A key switch is nice, along with some sort of a dimmer switch. I usually keep the stock headlight and maybe go with an aftermarket tail light. I keep the factory alternator if it is good, and also the lucas points. I will start off discussing how I set up my triumphs.įirst thing is decide what to keep and what to throw away. This will be about kicker bikes.no electric starter. I thought it might be a good idea to have a thread about basic wiring for most any motorcycle. Ok.I'm helping raildog with rewiring his triumph. ![]()
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